Ocracoke

Ocracoke and the HOG Rally

This was my most anticipated trip to date. Chad and I checked the extended weather forecast two weeks out and then every day until Friday, the day we left. We gassed up and headed out at 7:00AM. The weather was surprisingly warm for that early at 65 degrees and the sky was partly cloudy. We need to be at the ferry by 9:00 to get the 9:30 ferry. Lynn had set up reservations a couple of weeks in advance for the round trip for all three bikes.




The first leg of our journey carried us from New Bern to Havelock and through parts of the real Down East like Williston, Smyrna, Davis, Stacy and Atlantic. This is a route less travelled but it has some wonderful scenery. The road near the Cedar Island end of the ferry is a narrow ribbon of asphalt winding through the expansive salt marshes of Down East Carteret County. The wide and deep canals on either side of the highway will make you think twice about your speed.




Glancing at the time it was about 8:35 and I thought we were right on schedule. That's when I saw one of the most feared signs on the highway: LOOSE GRAVEL ON ROAD. Sure as hell, that was the case for the next three miles. Now we're not talking about a little gravel, we're talking gravel all across both lanes. Chad's Street Bob and Lynn's Sportster were kicking up little rooster tails of the pea sized gravel. With the speed adjusted downward to 25, and sometimes much lower to take the tight curves, we finally arrive at the ferry landing.

Since we are heading to Ocracoke, which is at the southern end and well away from the rally site, we assumed that most bikes would be going the northern route. What a nice surprise to see quite a few motorcycles lined up ahead of us. The weather was absolutely perfect. The partly cloudy skies had given way to sunny conditions and about a 75 degree temperature. We have about a 30 minute wait until loading time so we chat with some of the other riders.

With the ferry underway we double checked that the bikes were in gear and firmly on their kick stands. Once we were settled in Lynn produced a picnic breakfast. It seems that Lynn was a very early riser this morning. The bacon egg and cheese biscuits along with fresh orange slices really hit the spot. How she carried everything on the Sportster, along with luggage, is a mystery to me. About now a nap would have been good but there was just too much excitement anticipating the arrival at Ocracoke Island.

After two and a half hours we arrive at Ocracoke Island and ride off the ferry and into what can only be described as a little piece of heaven. Immediately the place had a home town feel with folks walking and riding bikes everywhere. Little specialty shops scattered about with almost any food you could imagine presenting itself in one place or another. And my favorite, purveyors of adult beverages along the harbor waterfront. Well it was a wee bit early for that sort of thing so we head to The Beach House to unpack the bikes, freshen up, and settle in a bit.

Ocracoke Inlet was first put on the map when English explorers wrecked a sailing ship there in 1585. Two centuries later this was one of the busiest inlets on the East Coast. Ocracoke Inlet was the only reasonably navigable waterway for ships accessing inland ports such as Elizabeth City, New Bern, and Edenton. Ocracoke Village, then known as Pilot Town, developed as a result of the inlet's use. Pilots hired to steer ships safely through the shifting channels to mainland ports settled the village in the 1730's.




The Beach House is a very nice Bed and Breakfast situated right across the street from the Post Office. It is owned by Carol and Warren and they are two of the nicest people you will ever meet. The house was built in about 1915 and now contains 4 very nice guest rooms. The location puts it in easy walking distance of almost everything Ocracoke has to offer. The coffee and breakfast is exceptionally good each and every morning and really got us started on our two-wheel journeys.



Did I mention that Carol raises Orchids? Well she most certainly does.







Alright girls I know the swing and front porch are all that but let's get to moving! Actually we spent a few hours over the long weekend enjoying this porch.





The Ocracoke lighthouse is one of those things that you're not prepared for. We've all seen the Lookout and Hatteras lighthouses over and over on sites and in publications but this lighthouse is a special treat. The history is interesting and it is quite an accomplished lighthouse. The light is is an easy walk from the Beach House. The Ocracoke light is the second oldest operating lighthouse in the nation. With its aid, yesterday's sailing vessels safely navigated the channels. Today, fishing and pleasure boats pass within its view. Time, however, has not changed the often tricky character of the shoal-ridden inlet. The historic lighthouse still stands by to make safe the waters.





After the Ocracoke light we took a leisurely stroll all around the neighborhood. Ocracoke has something to offer everyone. There are shops for every taste from pirate hats to beach wear to upscale art shops. Walking is the easy way around but there are bike and scooter rentals at several locations.





We almost had a run in with the Harbor Patrol Friday afternoon but when they realized we were from out of town they let us off with a warning and a fish apiece.






Enough walkin' already! Chad and I arrive at SMacNally's and hook up with a couple of local gals. I wonder where Debbie and Lynn are? These two girls sure drank a lot of beer.







I guess Debbie got mad and found her some old guy who agreed to buy more drinks. I wonder where Ralph is. This guy had already drunk a lot of beer.





As if the Harbor Patrol wasn't bad enough, the Shore Patrol came along and almost charged us with being loud and disorderly. Debbie was quite taken with his southern charm.





After our afternoon excursion we headed back to the Beach House to chill for a while. We decided to have supper at Howard's Pub and boy was that a good decision. Great food with an extensive menu and the best staff you have ever seen. Yep you guessed it, walking distance to Howard's. Well it was a long day and we had quite a ride set up for tomorrow so time to retire for the evening.



We woke up an hour early Saturday morning but didn't figure it out until a little later. This picture proves that even the road takes a break in Ocracoke.




After breakfast we leave Ocracoke proper and head to the Ocracoke-Hatteras Ferry landing for the northward leg of our journey. The road here is not very busy and it appeared we basically had it to ourselves. The State has created a berm all along highway 12 to help prevent beach over wash during hurricane conditions.



Once off on the Hatteras side on our way to Kitty Hawk we encountered wave after wave of bikes. Most riders gave up on the "Wave" by Saturday. Did I mention it was OBX bike week and the State HOG Rally? The temperature dropped 15 degrees very quickly near mid day. What once was 80 degrees was now near 65. Still a great day.





Nags Head Harley Davidson had quite a few bikes in the parking lot. We checked out things for a while and of course picked up a couple of items. We grabbed a quick lunch in the shopping center that surrounds the dealership and then decided to head to the Wright Brothers Memorial.




The Wright Brothers Memorial was a treat for all of us. Debbie was the only one of us that had ever been previously. She visited with her parents when she was a little girl. That was a looong time ago.

The entire site was most impressive. The grounds are quite expansive and they have done an excellent job on recreating the feel of what it was like many many years ago. The old drawings, maps and photographs were my favorites.







This could be a Harley ad. They would call it Cool and Crazy. I will let you figure out the order.








Chad shot this one of Debbie and Ralph on board the Ultra.








Onward to Kitty Hawk Harley-Davidson....This is where the main events where held. There were a LOT of bikes on the lot. At least one thousand at our estimate and that was late in the day.
It was getting close to 4:00 so we decided to head south and back to Ocracoke. We plan to detour at Bodie Island and Hatteras lighthouses for some photo ops.



Bodie Island lighthouse. Fearing that the 80-foot tower would be used by Union forces as an observation post, retreating Confederate troops blew it up in 1861. New construction began in 1871. The new site is 156 feet tall.





Cape Hatteras lighthouse. More than 500 ships of many nations, trying to find their way around the shoals, have foundered at or near Cape Hatteras, earning for the area its sinister reputation as the "Graveyard of the Atlantic." The present brick tower, the second construction, erected in 1869 - 70 by the Lighthouse Board, cost more than $150,000. She proudly stands at 197 feet.








7:00PM Saturday. The group was tolerate enough to allow me the time to take some pictures of the lighthouses but unfortunately it cost some time. We were late making the ferry so we had until 8:00 to wait for the next one. So here is "Sunset at the ferry landing." It is available in limited numbered prints.






It was quite dark when we left the ferry but it was fun to drive the last few miles of highway 12 into Ocracoke. 9:00PM upon arrival and enough time to go to Howard's Pub one last time.







8:30AM Sunday. Even though King isn't allowed to visit like he wants we did catch him outside to bid a fond farewell and promise to return soon. King actually owns the Beach House but he does allow Carol and Warren to live there.





This is supposed to be a welcome sign but this was the last thing we saw leaving Ocracoke. We will certainly make this a annual trek from now on but we will allow a few more days.





We had a wonderful time. This was the best trip to date on two wheels. 365 miles were added to the odometer and 410 pictures added to the digital archive. There was warm weather, cool weather and even some rain. We arrived back home around 1:30 p.m. and spent a LOT of time cleaning the bikes. They were covered in salt and road residue, dust, the nightly dew and bugs! Can't wait to do it again.